There are currently 3 different displays sold with the BBS02 drive unit. Some vendors allow you to choose, others will ship you whatever you get and that’s what you’re stuck with. Any of these displays should work with either the BBS01, BBS02 or the BBSHD.
The C961 is the oldest and has a small display with the three buttons separate from the unit. It has the least amount of functionality but is the most commonly seen with the BBS02 drive unit. It has no watt meter unlike the other two. The manual for the c961 is here. The C961 has a PAS speed limit of 50km/hr which can override the programming on the controller. You can work around this limit by setting the wheel diameter to a smaller size than it actually is, although then your speedometer will be inaccurate. The C961 can support 9 levels of PAS on the display.
The C965 is the rarest display I’ve seen, usually it is priced somewhere between the C961 and the C963. This unit has a unique vertical configuration which some people seem to really like. There are two versions, one with 3 buttons and another with five buttons making menu navigation far more intuitive. If you don’t care about stealth but want a watt meter and can’t get the C963 this unit is might work for you. The watt meter does not show total watts used, only the current power draw. When compared against a more accurate watt meter it becomes obvious that the watt meter is also wildly inaccurate. The manual for the three button version is here. The manual for the five button version is here. The C965 has a PAS speed limit of 99km/hr which is more than you will ever get to on any BBSxx unit.
If your display is showing error code 30 then you probably have a bad C965 display. There was a large number of BBSHDs that shipped out early 2016 with bad displays. Contact your vendor to replace it with a newer display and the problem should go away. Replacing the controller will not fix the problem.
The C963 has an auto-backlight as well as a watt meter. This is our favorite unit because it is the smallest, stealthiest and best looking display unit of the B&W displays. The fit and finish look much higher quality than the other two. Like the C965 this unit only shows current power output and is not particularly accurate. The manual for this unit is located here. The C963 has a PAS speed limit of 40km/hr which can override the programming on the controller. You can work around this limit by setting the wheel diameter to a smaller size than it actually is, although then your speedometer will be inaccurate. With my fatbikes I set their wheels which are close to 29ers in diameter to only 18 inches which then shows me in kph how fast I’m going (approximately) in mph. The C963 is the only display here that will not display in mph only in kph. It is also limited to showing only 5 levels of PAS. The C963 watt meter also only goes up to 999 and if you’re pulling more watts than that (both the BBS02 & the BBSHD will) then the display will basically read nonsense.
If you want to access the advanced features of this display you will need to look at the Kingsong manual right here . The first half of this manual is Chinese so you need to jump to page 32 where the English version starts. If you want to change the number of PAS levels displayed the instructions on doing that start on page 50, there is a bunch of other parameters you can change without having to program your controller as well.
The new DP C10 is by far the nicest of all the displays, but it is also pretty hard to get. Most ebike dealers will charge a premium for this display. The biggest difference is that there is a built-in USB port so you can charge your phone off your ebike battery. This is a nice add-on if you want to use your cellphone as a GPS unit or if you want to use a normal automotive GPS unit or dashcam. Just plug it in and go. Without a drive unit this display runs about $75 from Lunacycle.com right here. This display is quirky, has no programming manual and a lot of people don’t really like it. The USB port not power up unless an active device is plugged into it before powering up the display, and it is limited to about 1Amp of power at 5v which is enough to charge your phone or run your GPS but is not going to be enough power for a bright LED headlight. At this I do not recommend this display. Here is a crash course on brief instructions on how to program it written by Sakkie from this thread.
Click “i” twice to enter the menu then click it once to move to the next option. Double click to save.
TC = Trip Clearance. Choose N or Y
S7 = Miles or KM. Use plus or minus to choose one then double click “i”. This will take you out of the menu but is the only way I found to keep the setting.
BL= Back light sensor. How sensitive the sensor is to turn BL on.
BL-1 = Back light brightness
OFf = Screen auto off time
nna = Maintenance reminder. 0 = off 1 = on
SB = password. 0 “i” 5 “i” 1 “i” 2 “i”
LUd = Wheel diameter
SPl = Speed limit
601 = ???????
The newest all color display for the BBSxx drive units is the just released DPC-14 (reviewed here). This display has all the features you would expect on a display that often seem absent or missing from earlier displays. It has a clock, trip meter, real-time Watt or Amp meter, and a battery power meter that actually works properly for any voltage pack. On top of all that the display is also full color (none of the other ones are). The DPC-14 is may favorate of all the displays hands down, you will not be disappointed with this display.
If you want to see the manual for the DPC-14 then click here, for a short video on how to program it check out this short youtube video from Lunacycle.com. One of the nicest features is that you can set it with a password so someone else can’t easily jack your bike. That will come in real handy in my crappy neighborhood.
What do I buy? A lot of vendors won’t give you a choice when you purchase the drive unit, some vendors will. We recommend the C963 but if you can’t get the C963 the C961 is a good 2nd bet. There is nothing wrong with the C965, we just don’t like the size and design of it. I would avoid the DPC-10 and the DPC-14 is my current favorate and is highly recommended. The watt meter, while useful is not something that usually matters that much to us. What we really need is a temperature meter showing the current temperature inside the unit. For instructions on how to install your own temperature gauge for <$5 check out step 12 in this link.